How To Install Brick Slips
How To Install Brick Slips
A practical installation guide for measuring, setting out, fixing, cutting, pointing and caring for your new brick slip wall. This guide is written for customers using Brick Slips UK brick slips for interior feature walls, fireplaces, kitchens, hallways and selected exterior projects.
View our full brick slips collectionPlan it once. Fit it properly.
Brick slips are fitted in a similar way to tiles, but the final look depends on careful setting out, consistent joints and tidy pointing. Read through the full guide before opening adhesive or mortar.
1Good installation starts
Open and mix multiple boxes so colour and texture are blended naturally across the wall.
2Protect the room
Cover floors, skirting, kitchen units and fireplaces before cutting, fixing or pointing.
3Use suitable products
Match adhesive, primer and mortar to the wall, location and product instructions. For best results, use a suitable brick slip adhesive.
PPE, heat and electrics matter
Wear eye protection, gloves and a dust mask when cutting or brushing. Isolate power before working near sockets. For fireplaces and log burners, check the appliance instructions and use suitable heat-rated materials where required.
Tools and materials checklist
Gather everything before you mix adhesive. It keeps the installation cleaner, faster and more accurate.
Brick slips
Boxes, corner slips and samples where required.
Adhesive
Powder-based tile adhesive suitable for the substrate.
10mm spacers
Creates an even mortar joint between slips.
Primer
Used on porous or prepared surfaces before fixing.
You will usually need
- Brick slips and corner slips if your edge returns are visible.
- Suitable primer for the wall or board.
- Flexible powder-based adhesive.
- 6mm notched trowel and mixing trowel.
- Mixing bucket and paddle mixer.
- 10mm brick slip spacers.
- Spirit level, tape measure, pencil and straight edge.
- Wet tile saw, angle grinder or suitable cutter.
- Pointing mortar or sand/cement pointing mix.
- Pointing gun, pointing trowel and joint profiler.
- Stiff bristle brush or wire brush.
- Dust sheets and masking tape.
- PPE: gloves, eye protection and dust mask.
- Optional sealer for splash-prone areas.
Work out how much to order
Measure each wall separately and add the square metres together. Brick Slips UK boxes are sold to cover approximately 0.5m² when fitted with 10mm spacers, so multiply your m² by two to estimate box quantity, then add waste.
A1. Area
Height × width = m². For several walls, add each wall total together.
B2. Boxes
m² × 2 = approximate number of 0.5m² boxes required.
C3. Waste
Add around 10% to allow for cuts, breakages and selection.
Corner slips
For visible external corners, measure the total vertical metres. As a guide, Brick Slips UK corner slips are calculated at around 14 corners per linear metre in height. Browse matching products in our brick slips range.
Make the wall ready to bond
A strong finish depends on the wall beneath it. Brick slips will follow the contour of the substrate, so spend time cleaning, flattening and priming before you start.
- Stable
- Flat
- Dry
- Clean
Prep sequence
- Remove loose paint, dust, grease and flaking material.
- Check the wall is stable. Do not fix over crumbling or hollow surfaces.
- Score firmly bonded paint to create a better key for adhesive.
- Prime porous backgrounds such as bare plaster, plasterboard, blockwork or timber board.
- Let primer dry fully before fixing the first course.
Plasterboard / plaster
Prime first and check it is dry, clean and well fixed.
Brick / blockwork
Brush clean and use a suitable primer where needed.
Painted wall
Only install over sound paint. Score the surface first.
External wall
Use products suitable for outside and frost exposure.
Mark the centre and the bond
The most common layout is brick bond. Mark a centre vertical line, then mark a second line half a brick length away. These guide lines help alternate rows and avoid awkward cuts.
Centre line: start your first row here.
½-brick offset: use this for alternate rows.
1Dry lay first
Place a few slips on the floor to check tone, spacing and cuts before adhesive.
2Mix boxes
Use slips from at least two boxes at once for a natural blend.
3Avoid slivers
Move the starting point slightly if you would be left with tiny end cuts.
Tip: keep stepping back
Small adjustments are easiest while the adhesive is still workable.
Apply adhesive and fit the first rows
Mix adhesive to the manufacturer’s instructions. Work in small areas, use a notched trowel and press each slip firmly into place. Keep joints consistent with spacers.
Use a notched trowel
Work in small sections so adhesive stays workable.
Fixing sequence
- Start at the bottom centre, or start with external corner slips first if your project has visible corners.
- Spread adhesive evenly with a 6mm notched trowel, and back-butter the slip where needed for full contact.
- Press the slip into position with a slight twist or firm push. Do not leave voids behind the slip.
- Insert 10mm spacers and check the course with a spirit level as you move across the wall.
- Complete each row before moving up. Clean fresh adhesive from the face and joints as you go.
For suitable accessories, see our brick slip installation accessories.
Finish edges neatly
Corners and cut pieces are where an installation starts to look professional. Measure twice, allow for the joint, and keep cut edges facing into corners or against trim wherever possible.
Corner slips first
Use corner slips on visible returns for a full-brick look.
Measure the cut
Remaining gap - joint width
Example: 40mm gap - 10mm joint = 30mm cut.
Practical cutting rules
- Measure the gap, subtract the joint width, then mark the slip clearly before cutting.
- Cut outdoors or in a well-ventilated area and wear a dust mask, gloves and eye protection.
- Use a wet tile saw, angle grinder or suitable masonry cutter. Keep hands clear and support the slip firmly.
- Around sockets, isolate power and use a qualified electrician if the faceplate needs moving or extending.
- For visible external corners, use purpose-made corner slips rather than exposed cut edges.
Let it set, then fill the joints
Do not rush the pointing stage. Once the adhesive has cured, remove spacers by hand where possible, brush out the joints and fill them fully with mortar.
Fill the joints fully
Profile while workable, then brush back before it hardens.
24h
A common minimum wait before cleaning and pointing. Always follow the adhesive manufacturer’s stated curing time.
Pointing sequence
- Remove all spacers and brush dust, crumbs and adhesive from the joints.
- Mix mortar in small batches to a workable consistency that holds its shape.
- Use a pointing gun or pointing trowel to pack the joints fully.
- Profile the mortar while workable for a tidy, consistent recess or joint finish.
- Before the mortar fully hardens, brush the face lightly to remove excess without smearing.
Clean, inspect and enjoy the wall
Once pointing has cured, carry out a final brush-down and inspect the installation. Brick Slips UK slips are supplied sealed, but extra sealer may still be useful in splash-prone areas depending on use.
Final checklist
- Rows are straight and the bond looks balanced from a distance.
- There are no obvious adhesive smears on the face of the slips.
- All joints are filled, profiled and brushed back neatly.
- Corners and cut pieces look intentional and secure.
- The room is cleaned before mortar dust is walked through the home.
Avoid these common mistakes
Rushing the layout
A few minutes setting out prevents awkward cuts.
Using one box at a time
Mix boxes for natural colour variation.
Pointing too early
Let adhesive cure before filling joints.
Sponge cleaning textured slips
Brush cleaning is usually safer on rustic faces.
